Tag: Burgos

  • Stage 12. Agés – Burgos

    Stage 12. Agés – Burgos

    And just like that, our last stage of the Camino de Santiago for this year has come to an end. The journey from Agés to Burgos was, to put it bluntly, the most boring stretch we’ve walked. But every Camino stage has its own charm – or at least a few redeeming moments.

    The first few kilometers were uneventful, but between kilometers 3 and 8, we finally had something to enjoy. We crossed a mountain, reaching 1,000 meters of elevation once again. The climb was a welcome challenge, a brief escape from the monotony of the asphalt roads that dominated the rest of the route.

    Once past the mountain and approaching Burgos, we had a decision to make: take the industrial area or opt for the airport route. We went with the latter, preferring the less crowded path that also kept us away from the highway’s noise. It wasn’t scenic, but at least it was quieter.

    Airport route

    After enduring the long, medium-paved roads near the airport’s fence, the entrance to Burgos was surprisingly pleasant. The Camino led us through a long park, a green corridor that slowly welcomed us into the heart of the city. It was a refreshing way to end the stage, making up for the dullness of the earlier kilometers.

    Once again, we managed to outrun the rain. We arrived at the municipal hostel, settled in, and just minutes later, when we stepped out for lunch, the rain had started. Timing has been on our side throughout this journey!

    For lunch, we tried an Asian restaurant nearby – Tora Street Food. The food was okay, but nothing remarkable. Hopefully, dinner will be better – we’re aiming for ramen tonight. Given that it’s Good Friday, we’ll have to navigate around the cathedral’s events to reach the place.

    And with that, our Camino for this year comes to a close. It wasn’t the most exciting stage, but it was another step forward in the journey. Until next time, Buen Camino! 🚶‍♂️


  • Stage 10. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

    Stage 10. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

    One of the most noticeable aspects of this stage is its proximity to highly transited roads. While the trail is well separated from the traffic, the constant hum of passing trucks and the gusts of wind they generate are ever-present companions. It’s a reminder that even on a pilgrimage, modern infrastructure is never far away.

    Another striking change was the landscape itself. Gone were the vineyards that had accompanied us in the last two days. Instead, vast fields of wheat stretched in every direction.

    Even after completing the stage, I felt good and ventured a few kilometers alone to view the remains of a castle from the mountain’s edge and wander through a nearby forest and camps. Even at 900 meters altitude, wheat fields still dominated the terrain. Guess this is the agricultural theme of this region.

    Overall, this stage does not boast many remarkable sights, but it does pass through Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, who was born in 1019. His house stood for centuries until it finally collapsed in 1980, according to a note left at the site. Though little remains of his original home, his legacy continues to shape the Camino and the town that bears his name.

    We stopped at Albergue Cuatro Cantones, a welcoming and well-maintained place. The price for a bed in a shared room of 20-22 people is 15 euros, while smaller rooms were available for around 17 euros.

    The facilities are thoughtfully arranged, with each room having a separate space containing two toilets, two sinks, and two showers. Each bed is equipped with its own power supply and light, a small but appreciated detail.

    The albergue also has its own restaurant, offering lunch and dinner (I remember seeing a vegetarian option but can’t remember what it is), but not breakfast. While there is no kitchen, there is a place with a microwave, water heater, fridge and a vending machine stocked with snacks, chocolates, beers and coke. There is also a coffee machine but I did not see what flavors it has or the cost. Kitchen supplies are sparse and I didn’t notice any salt or spices, but overall, the place has a warm and inviting atmosphere.

    Finding a vegan-friendly meal proves to be challenging on St. James Way; we settled for a bar-restaurant that offered a lentil dish as the main course, with vegetables and potatoes ordered as separate dishes. While it wasn’t an exceptional meal, it was nourishing enough to keep us going. As always, I won’t share the name of the place, or link, unless I fully recommend a place, which isn’t the case here.

    For dinner, we kept it simple – just infusion tea and some local sweets for me (non-vegan).