Tag: Logroño

  • Stage 10. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

    Stage 10. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

    One of the most noticeable aspects of this stage is its proximity to highly transited roads. While the trail is well separated from the traffic, the constant hum of passing trucks and the gusts of wind they generate are ever-present companions. It’s a reminder that even on a pilgrimage, modern infrastructure is never far away.

    Another striking change was the landscape itself. Gone were the vineyards that had accompanied us in the last two days. Instead, vast fields of wheat stretched in every direction.

    Even after completing the stage, I felt good and ventured a few kilometers alone to view the remains of a castle from the mountain’s edge and wander through a nearby forest and camps. Even at 900 meters altitude, wheat fields still dominated the terrain. Guess this is the agricultural theme of this region.

    Overall, this stage does not boast many remarkable sights, but it does pass through Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, who was born in 1019. His house stood for centuries until it finally collapsed in 1980, according to a note left at the site. Though little remains of his original home, his legacy continues to shape the Camino and the town that bears his name.

    We stopped at Albergue Cuatro Cantones, a welcoming and well-maintained place. The price for a bed in a shared room of 20-22 people is 15 euros, while smaller rooms were available for around 17 euros.

    The facilities are thoughtfully arranged, with each room having a separate space containing two toilets, two sinks, and two showers. Each bed is equipped with its own power supply and light, a small but appreciated detail.

    The albergue also has its own restaurant, offering lunch and dinner (I remember seeing a vegetarian option but can’t remember what it is), but not breakfast. While there is no kitchen, there is a place with a microwave, water heater, fridge and a vending machine stocked with snacks, chocolates, beers and coke. There is also a coffee machine but I did not see what flavors it has or the cost. Kitchen supplies are sparse and I didn’t notice any salt or spices, but overall, the place has a warm and inviting atmosphere.

    Finding a vegan-friendly meal proves to be challenging on St. James Way; we settled for a bar-restaurant that offered a lentil dish as the main course, with vegetables and potatoes ordered as separate dishes. While it wasn’t an exceptional meal, it was nourishing enough to keep us going. As always, I won’t share the name of the place, or link, unless I fully recommend a place, which isn’t the case here.

    For dinner, we kept it simple – just infusion tea and some local sweets for me (non-vegan).


  • Stage 8. Logroño – Nájera

    Stage 8. Logroño – Nájera

    New year, new vacation days spent on the Santiago Way 🙂

    We drove in last evening, opting for the car after struggling to find an affordable and convenient train from Barcelona to Logroño. The four-hour drive was smooth (with the lunch in Zaragoza) and securing six days of parking for just 50 euros felt like a great deal.

    A quick note about lunch – whenever we passed through Zaragoza, we had our go-to spot. But this time, we found out it had either moved or closed, so we had to hunt for something new. Fortunately, MATi opened just three months ago, and it turned out to be a fantastic discovery! The food and service were top-notch, with almost everything made in-house. Absolutely delicious!

    For the night, we stayed at the municipal hostel, which offered all the essentials for 10 euros per person. The only real downside was the lack of electrical outlets in the bedrooms – I’ve only spotted a few in the kitchen. Other than that, it was a decent stay.

    Although not very spectacular, Logroño to Nájera section, passes through the heart of La Rioja, Spain’s renowned wine region.

    Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, serves as an essential stop for pilgrims on the Camino Francés. The city is full of lively tapas bars along Calle del Laurel, making it a perfect place to fuel up before setting out. Did I mention Bar Cid in a previous post? Yes, I did! Go there 🙂

    As you progress towards Nájera, the path is lined with endless vineyards, a signature of the region’s rich winemaking tradition. The terrain is gentle, making the journey manageable for walkers of all levels. Along the way, you may encounter small villages like Navarrete, known for its Baroque Church of Santa María and traditional pottery.

    After covering approximately 30 km, you arrive in Nájera, a town steeped in medieval history. The highlight here is the Monastery of Santa María la Real, a key historical site where several Navarrese kings were laid to rest. The town, nestled along the Najerilla River, offers a picturesque setting to rest and reflect on the day.

    The route is quite long and features a steady ascent for most of the way. Starting at 400 meters in Logroño, the elevation climbs to nearly 700 meters over the first 20 kilometers. After that, the final 10 kilometers offer a gentle, gradual descent, making for a smoother finish to the journey. Still, many people in the hostel are tired and barely walking.

    We stopped at the municipal hostel again – just 6 euros per person for a bed in a huge dorm packed with double-decker bunks.

    The shower situation? A bit tricky—wait too long, and you’ll end up with cold water, as I unfortunately learned firsthand.

    After checking-in, we had a late lunch at a Chinese restaurant, but nothing out of the ordinary – just the usual rice and noodles, so not much worth mentioning about it.