Tag: train

  • Stage 8. Logroño – Nájera

    Stage 8. Logroño – Nájera

    New year, new vacation days spent on the Santiago Way 🙂

    We drove in last evening, opting for the car after struggling to find an affordable and convenient train from Barcelona to Logroño. The four-hour drive was smooth (with the lunch in Zaragoza) and securing six days of parking for just 50 euros felt like a great deal.

    A quick note about lunch – whenever we passed through Zaragoza, we had our go-to spot. But this time, we found out it had either moved or closed, so we had to hunt for something new. Fortunately, MATi opened just three months ago, and it turned out to be a fantastic discovery! The food and service were top-notch, with almost everything made in-house. Absolutely delicious!

    For the night, we stayed at the municipal hostel, which offered all the essentials for 10 euros per person. The only real downside was the lack of electrical outlets in the bedrooms – I’ve only spotted a few in the kitchen. Other than that, it was a decent stay.

    Although not very spectacular, Logroño to Nájera section, passes through the heart of La Rioja, Spain’s renowned wine region.

    Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, serves as an essential stop for pilgrims on the Camino Francés. The city is full of lively tapas bars along Calle del Laurel, making it a perfect place to fuel up before setting out. Did I mention Bar Cid in a previous post? Yes, I did! Go there 🙂

    As you progress towards Nájera, the path is lined with endless vineyards, a signature of the region’s rich winemaking tradition. The terrain is gentle, making the journey manageable for walkers of all levels. Along the way, you may encounter small villages like Navarrete, known for its Baroque Church of Santa María and traditional pottery.

    After covering approximately 30 km, you arrive in Nájera, a town steeped in medieval history. The highlight here is the Monastery of Santa María la Real, a key historical site where several Navarrese kings were laid to rest. The town, nestled along the Najerilla River, offers a picturesque setting to rest and reflect on the day.

    The route is quite long and features a steady ascent for most of the way. Starting at 400 meters in Logroño, the elevation climbs to nearly 700 meters over the first 20 kilometers. After that, the final 10 kilometers offer a gentle, gradual descent, making for a smoother finish to the journey. Still, many people in the hostel are tired and barely walking.

    We stopped at the municipal hostel again – just 6 euros per person for a bed in a huge dorm packed with double-decker bunks.

    The shower situation? A bit tricky—wait too long, and you’ll end up with cold water, as I unfortunately learned firsthand.

    After checking-in, we had a late lunch at a Chinese restaurant, but nothing out of the ordinary – just the usual rice and noodles, so not much worth mentioning about it.


  • Stage 0. Pamplona – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    Stage 0. Pamplona – Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    Well, the time has come. My heart soul and I decided to spend another week of the Camino de Santiago. However this time, starting from the beginning of the French Way, from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France.

    We took the train from Barcelona to Pamplona on Friday evening and arrived at about 10pm at the hostel Albergue Plaza Catedral. I will not add many details about this part of trip because nothing much happened. Nice place overall but, geez! Those beds would really need some WD-40 lubricant. All beds! Other than that, the eating area is kind of small for the amount of people that are checked in and could use it.

    Anyway, let’s go to today’s trip. Since it’s still considered “winter” by someone here, there is no direct bus from Pamplona to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (this year the bus service starts in March 25), so we had to take one bus from Pamplona to San Sebastián (1h 15min trip); from there another bus to Bayonne, France (1h 30min aprox) and from there a train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (1h).

    The thing is, we got off the first bus one stop earlier by mistake and had to take a local bus to get to our next destination. This local bus had 50+ stops and took 1h+ to reach our needed destination. obviously we missed the train 🙂 and the next one was 4 hours later 😅 so we had the take away lunch besides sitting on some stairs besides the river with some nice views. We then did some walking around the city and had an incredibly good vegan ice cream from an Italian ice cream shop.

    At 7:20pm we arrived to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We went to the pilgrims office to get the pilgrim passport and then to the hostel – Gite Bidean. A very-very cozy place with amazing people, Joe and Pascal. In this specific location, there is no kitchen for everyone’s use, but they can prepare something on request. Since we’re vegans, we had an instant onion soup with some boiled lentils from the supermarket. Afterwards we have a somewhat long but very pleasant discussion with the Pascal, the owner. I enjoyed the conversation a lot and it reminded me about our previous trip when we also encountered very nice owners in almost every hostel.

    It was a long day due the bus issue but it was a nice day spent together. Can’t wait to start the journey tomorrow! We’ll not do the “Napoleon” route because it is closed due to bad weather, so I hope the “backup” route will be nice as well even though it has lots of asphalt roads.

    Featured image by Jon Tyson (@jontyson) on https://unsplash.com/