Vitalie Ciobanu

Data Analyst as a Service

Category: Logroño – Burgos

  • Stage 12. Agés – Burgos

    Stage 12. Agés – Burgos

    And just like that, our last stage of the Camino de Santiago for this year has come to an end. The journey from Agés to Burgos was, to put it bluntly, the most boring stretch we’ve walked. But every Camino stage has its own charm – or at least a few redeeming moments.

    The first few kilometers were uneventful, but between kilometers 3 and 8, we finally had something to enjoy. We crossed a mountain, reaching 1,000 meters of elevation once again. The climb was a welcome challenge, a brief escape from the monotony of the asphalt roads that dominated the rest of the route.

    The start of the climb
    Agés – Burgos stage elevation

    Once past the mountain and approaching Burgos, we had a decision to make: take the industrial area or opt for the airport route. We went with the latter, preferring the less crowded path that also kept us away from the highway’s noise. It wasn’t scenic, but at least it was quieter.

    Airport route

    After enduring the long, medium-paved roads near the airport’s fence, the entrance to Burgos was surprisingly pleasant. The Camino led us through a long park, a green corridor that slowly welcomed us into the heart of the city. It was a refreshing way to end the stage, making up for the dullness of the earlier kilometers.

    Once again, we managed to outrun the rain. We arrived at the municipal hostel, settled in, and just minutes later, when we stepped out for lunch, the rain had started. Timing has been on our side throughout this journey!

    For lunch, we tried an Asian restaurant nearby – Tora Street Food. The food was okay, but nothing remarkable. Hopefully, dinner will be better – we’re aiming for ramen tonight. Given that it’s Good Friday, we’ll have to navigate around the cathedral’s events to reach the place.

    And with that, our Camino for this year comes to a close. It wasn’t the most exciting stage, but it was another step forward in the journey. Until next time, Buen Camino! 🚶‍♂️

    Mountain’s highest point

  • Stage 11. Belorado – Agés

    Stage 11. Belorado – Agés

    Until km 11-12, the route was a relatively easy uphill but monotonous, surrounded by rolling hills and expansive fields. The standout stop in this stretch was La Taberna de Espinosa, a delightful hostel with a bar in Espinosa del Camino. The hosts were warm, welcoming and with a good sense of humor, but the real highlight was their toast: toasted bread, local tomatoes and champignons combined into what might be the best toast tasted in a long time! A strong recommendation for anyone passing through.

    The toast!
    The hostel

    Passing Villafranca Montes de Oca, the landscape changed. A steep and somewhat longish climb emerged, adding excitement to the route. For those who enjoy a good uphill challenge, this section was a treat. After conquering it and reaching 1100+ meters of elevation, next 15 km were rewarding: oak, pine, and heather forests dominating the trail, bringing cool shade and a tranquil atmosphere while slowly rolling down the mountain.

    Elevation Belorado- Agés stage

    This woodland stretch continued all the way to San Juan de Ortega, a tiny town with many terraces, a perfect spot to pause if you need to. From there, another less forested path led us directly to Agés.

    Main square San Juan de Ortega

    Tonight’s stop is at Albergue El Pajar de Agés, a pleasant place with shared rooms with eight beds (15 euros per night). Linen options include single-use (1 euro) or washable sets (7 euros). While there’s no kitchen, amenities like a microwave, water heater and coffee vending machine are available. Laundry and drying services cost 5 euros each.

    Bathroom and shower
    The room

    For a quick bite, a veggie soup at a small corner establishment did the trick, though hunger wasn’t high thanks to a steady intake of bananas and bars throughout the day. We booked dinner at the same spot, ordering a vegetable paella – the place looked promising at midday, so hopes are high.

  • Stage 10. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

    Stage 10. Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Belorado

    One of the most noticeable aspects of this stage is its proximity to highly transited roads. While the trail is well separated from the traffic, the constant hum of passing trucks and the gusts of wind they generate are ever-present companions. It’s a reminder that even on a pilgrimage, modern infrastructure is never far away.

    Another striking change was the landscape itself. Gone were the vineyards that had accompanied us in the last two days. Instead, vast fields of wheat stretched in every direction.

    Even after completing the stage, I felt good and ventured a few kilometers alone to view the remains of a castle from the mountain’s edge and wander through a nearby forest and camps. Even at 900 meters altitude, wheat fields still dominated the terrain. Guess this is the agricultural theme of this region.

    Overall, this stage does not boast many remarkable sights, but it does pass through Viloria de Rioja, the birthplace of Santo Domingo de la Calzada, who was born in 1019. His house stood for centuries until it finally collapsed in 1980, according to a note left at the site. Though little remains of his original home, his legacy continues to shape the Camino and the town that bears his name.

    Main square with the former house right near the house visible on the right
    Info about the house of Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    We stopped at Albergue Cuatro Cantones, a welcoming and well-maintained place. The price for a bed in a shared room of 20-22 people is 15 euros, while smaller rooms were available for around 17 euros.

    The facilities are thoughtfully arranged, with each room having a separate space containing two toilets, two sinks, and two showers. Each bed is equipped with its own power supply and light, a small but appreciated detail.

    The albergue also has its own restaurant, offering lunch and dinner (I remember seeing a vegetarian option but can’t remember what it is), but not breakfast. While there is no kitchen, there is a place with a microwave, water heater, fridge and a vending machine stocked with snacks, chocolates, beers and coke. There is also a coffee machine but I did not see what flavors it has or the cost. Kitchen supplies are sparse and I didn’t notice any salt or spices, but overall, the place has a warm and inviting atmosphere.

    Main entrance
    The boss 🙂
    Restroom
    3rd floor
    The team
    Our room

    Finding a vegan-friendly meal proves to be challenging on St. James Way; we settled for a bar-restaurant that offered a lentil dish as the main course, with vegetables and potatoes ordered as separate dishes. While it wasn’t an exceptional meal, it was nourishing enough to keep us going. As always, I won’t share the name of the place, or link, unless I fully recommend a place, which isn’t the case here.

    For dinner, we kept it simple – just infusion tea and some local sweets for me (non-vegan).

    Someone wants to free Castillo from Leon
    The castle, or what’s left from it
    The city from the highest peak nearby

  • Stage 9. Nájera – Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    Stage 9. Nájera – Santo Domingo de la Calzada

    The journey from Nájera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada was short but nice-ish. Covering around 21 kilometers, it took us through rolling hills, vineyards and more historic villages.

    We started the day earlier than yesterday, thinking of reaching the destination early. The morning promised rain for today but we were lucky enough to only pass through wind and cold 😅

    The first few kilometers (small but steady uphill) brought us through fields and vineyards, again, the heart of La Rioja’s famous winemaking region.

    Stage 9’s elevation graph

    The beautiful vineyard road led us to Azofra, a small town with a long pilgrimage history, where we paused to warm up a little and go to the bathroom. From there, the trail began to climb towards Cirueña, a village with a mix of old traditions and modern golf courses – a surprising contrast on the Camino. The walk became a bit challenging here due to the short but steep hill but the scenery made every step worth it!

    Finally, reaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada, a town deeply tied to the Camino’s history. The Cathedral of Santo Domingo, famous for its legend of the rooster and the hen, stood proudly in the main square.

    We settled in at Albergue Cisterciense. Run by Cistercian nuns, it offers a peaceful atmosphere, simple accommodations, and the chance to participate in religious services. Nonetheless, keep in mind that there is no heating.

    We had lunch at a place where they had only a vegan hamburger with chips (12 euros), because the two places we had favorited were closed, although being opened on google maps. Nothing impressive here, not the best hamburger of my life, but neither the worst.

    After lunch we went to do the laundry at EcoLaundry. A place where you can use their mobile app to program everything, very convenient, but it only allows a minimum payment of 10 euros. So using the cheapest laundry of 5 euros and cheapest drying programs of 3 euros, leaves you with 2 spare euros 🤨 so we had to use a longer drying cycle to use them.

    Hey Garmin, I am your father.

  • Stage 8. Logroño – Nájera

    Stage 8. Logroño – Nájera

    New year, new vacation days spent on the Santiago Way 🙂

    We drove in last evening, opting for the car after struggling to find an affordable and convenient train from Barcelona to Logroño. The four-hour drive was smooth (with the lunch in Zaragoza) and securing six days of parking for just 50 euros felt like a great deal.

    A quick note about lunch – whenever we passed through Zaragoza, we had our go-to spot. But this time, we found out it had either moved or closed, so we had to hunt for something new. Fortunately, MATi opened just three months ago, and it turned out to be a fantastic discovery! The food and service were top-notch, with almost everything made in-house. Absolutely delicious!

    Pasta CarboNADA
    Banana chips, delicious!!

    For the night, we stayed at the municipal hostel, which offered all the essentials for 10 euros per person. The only real downside was the lack of electrical outlets in the bedrooms – I’ve only spotted a few in the kitchen. Other than that, it was a decent stay.

    Although not very spectacular, Logroño to Nájera section, passes through the heart of La Rioja, Spain’s renowned wine region.

    Logroño, the capital of La Rioja, serves as an essential stop for pilgrims on the Camino Francés. The city is full of lively tapas bars along Calle del Laurel, making it a perfect place to fuel up before setting out. Did I mention Bar Cid in a previous post? Yes, I did! Go there 🙂

    As you progress towards Nájera, the path is lined with endless vineyards, a signature of the region’s rich winemaking tradition. The terrain is gentle, making the journey manageable for walkers of all levels. Along the way, you may encounter small villages like Navarrete, known for its Baroque Church of Santa María and traditional pottery.

    After covering approximately 30 km, you arrive in Nájera, a town steeped in medieval history. The highlight here is the Monastery of Santa María la Real, a key historical site where several Navarrese kings were laid to rest. The town, nestled along the Najerilla River, offers a picturesque setting to rest and reflect on the day.

    The route is quite long and features a steady ascent for most of the way. Starting at 400 meters in Logroño, the elevation climbs to nearly 700 meters over the first 20 kilometers. After that, the final 10 kilometers offer a gentle, gradual descent, making for a smoother finish to the journey. Still, many people in the hostel are tired and barely walking.

    We stopped at the municipal hostel again – just 6 euros per person for a bed in a huge dorm packed with double-decker bunks.

    The shower situation? A bit tricky—wait too long, and you’ll end up with cold water, as I unfortunately learned firsthand.

    After checking-in, we had a late lunch at a Chinese restaurant, but nothing out of the ordinary – just the usual rice and noodles, so not much worth mentioning about it.